Just eight of the 20 sunscreens we tested met their SPF label claim and the requirements for broad-spectrum protection. Prices ranged from $7.20 per 100ml (Smart365 Sun Sunscreen Lotion SPF50+ from The Warehouse) to $64 per 100ml (La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL Ultra-Light Fluid 50+).

These sunscreens met their SPF label claim and passed the broad spectrum test:

• La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL Ultra-Light Fluid SPF50+
• Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen Lotion SPF50+
• Nivea Sun Protect & Moisture Moisturising Sunscreen Lotion SPF50+
• Smart365 Sun Sunscreen Lotion SPF50+
• Oasis Sun Sport PA++++ SPF40
• Badger Sport Unscented Natural Mineral Sunscreen Cream SPF35
• My Sunshine Natural Sunscreen + Antioxidants SPF30
• Solzinc Natural Sun Protection 30+

In April, we made a submission to the Ministry of Health on the Therapeutic Products Regulatory Scheme. We strongly supported sunscreens being included as a therapeutic product and required to comply with the Australian and New Zealand sunscreen standard.

The sunscreen standard is mandatory in Australia but voluntary here (where sunscreens are classified as cosmetics). Products that meet other international standards, such as those in the US or EU, are also allowed to be sold as well as sunscreens that don’t meet any standard at all.

We also asked for regulations to specify how often sunscreens must be tested and include requirements for test labs. In addition, monitoring and independent testing of sunscreens must be done to ensure label claims are truthful.

We’ve been campaigning for a mandatory sunscreen standard for many years. In a country with one of the highest rates of skin cancer and melanoma in the world, it’s not good enough sunscreens aren’t regulated. Experts agree. The New Zealand Dermatological Society and Skin Cancer College Australasia support our campaign for regulation.

In summer, it’s important to slap on sunscreen to protect you from UV rays. The sun exposes you to two types of UV rays – UVA and UVB. UVA penetrates deeply into the skin and can cause wrinkles and age spots. UVB causes skin reddening and is the main cause of sunburn. Both rays can cause skin cancer.

Sunscreen active ingredients can be divided into two groups – physical blockers and chemical absorbers.

Physical blockers (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) work by reflecting or scattering UV radiation and are effective at protecting against both UVA and UVB radiation. A downside is they leave white marks on the skin, although some physical sunscreens now use nanoparticles – tiny molecules with one or more dimension less than 100 nanometres (nm) – which makes the sunscreen transparent.

There is debate about the safety of nanoparticles and whether they can penetrate the outer layer of skin (which has been shown in lab studies) and damage living cells.

There is debate about the safety of nanoparticles and whether they can penetrate the outer layer of skin.

In January 2017, the Australian Therapeutic Goods Administration updated its review on the safety of zinc oxide and titanium oxide nanoparticles. The review looked at both in vitro (studies on skin cells) and in vivo (studies on humans and animals). It concluded the majority of studies found nanoparticles didn’t penetrate “or minimally penetrated” the skin, suggesting “systemic absorption, hence toxicity, is highly unlikely”.

The European Commission concluded available evidence suggests zinc oxide and titanium dioxide nanoparticles can be considered safe for use on the skin as sunscreens up to a concentration of 25%. This does not apply to sprayable products, which might be inhaled.

With cosmetic products, which include sunscreens, nanoparticle ingredients are required to be labelled. The word “nano” must appear in brackets after the ingredient. However, if a sunscreen complies with Australian regulations, this isn’t required and products don’t need to declare the ingredients’ particle size.

Chemical absorbers (such as octinoxate or oxybenzone) work by absorbing UV radiation and can be further differentiated by the type of radiation they absorb – UVA or UVB. Chemical sunscreens will often have a combination of ingredients to protect against UVA and UVB.

Some people choose to avoid chemical sunscreens because of concerns the ingredients are absorbed through the skin. In May, a study by US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) researchers found these chemicals may be absorbed at levels higher than previously believed.

Studies have shown some chemical blockers are toxic to coral and potentially harmful to other aquatic organisms.

The FDA has asked the sunscreen industry to provide additional safety information on 12 chemical sunscreen ingredients including oxybenzone, homosalate and octinoxate to validate their safety and effectiveness.

In New Zealand, sunscreens are classified as cosmetics and regulated by the Environmental Protection Authority (EPA). The EPA said it’s aware of the FDA’s position. Any new findings could be considered as an update to cosmetics regulations, it said.

Some ingredients, in particular oxybenzone (also called benzophenone-3) and octinoxate (aka octyl methoxycinnamate) are also emerging as an environmental concern, especially in beach regions where they’re washed off.

Due to the evidence showing these ingredients impact negatively on marine life, the New Zealand Dermatological Society recommends using sunscreens without them. From 2021, sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate will be banned in Hawaii, except on prescription.

To choose sunscreens without these chemicals, check the packaging – all active ingredients in sunscreens must be listed.

Sunscreen irritation

Certain ingredients in sunscreens can irritate some people. This may be due to sensitive skin or a reaction to one of the ingredients (a chemical, preservative or fragrance).

The active ingredients in sunscreens must be listed on the label. However, unlike other cosmetics, sunscreens are exempt from having to list all ingredients if they comply with the Australian requirements.